Thursday, April 7, 2011

Fade Away and Radiate

02.04.2011 Fade Away and Radiate

I almost forgot to mention the Radiation Unit that greeted us at Yangon Airport on our return to Myanmar. This was only for travellers from Japan you understand. They had to go in the IN door of a big cubicle and come out of the OUT door (I’m guessing). It all looked terribly scientific, what with 8 young things hanging around dressed in white coats and carrying clipboards. Plus one of those scanner things the shops here are so fond of (God knows what they scan for, they always beep and no-one ever gets searched).

I sure did sleep better in my bed that night!

Visa Hassles

02.04.2011 Visa Hassles

Well, what did I expect? A smooth ride? An administrative system that WORKED? Less bureaucracy and more efficiency? What nonsense!

The whole visa situation is so dull and tedious I am loathe to write about it but I have to because it puts some of our experiences into context and in any case impacts our lives (and lives of those around us) to such an extent I can’t ignore it.

Basically our initial visa was for 3 months, which would be extended by another 9 months making a year, providing we didn’t do anything silly like insult the government or something. A relatively smooth process was of course spannered by all sorts of silly things like the fact that they didn’t have an official government for a few weeks so the visa committee didn’t bother having any meetings which means the backlog is enormous. At this time they also decided to introduce another level to the whole procedure so your application now has to go via your sponsoring ministry (in our case Health) to the Ministry of Home Affairs, then Foreign Affairs then something called the FACP which is the cabinet-level committee though no-one knows what it stands for. It’s completely bananas and meant that our very much longed for and planned-well-in-advance holiday to Thailand to spend time with my brother and his family, plus my mum and stepdad (Alfie’s beloved Mormor and Tony) was, well, kyboshed.

When it looked like we may not get our extension before our current visas expired (31st March) we took the decision to leave immediately and at least get just over a week of holiday before coming back on our expiry date. This did mean however that we only saw my mum for one afternoon which was lovely and tragic.

Of course it meant that all the work our landlord had planned to do in our absence had to be brought forward at short notice and would not be finished in time, plus poor old Amber had to come in every day to supervise and help out instead of having the time off with her kids we had intended.

Not only that, but we had a whole bunch of forms and paperwork (and fees!) in order to leave the bloody country too. Good job someone at Pete’s work mentioned this, otherwise how would we know? The trouble with secretive governments is that so much of their processes are shrouded in secrecy that it’s impossible, as a foreigner, to know what is the right thing to do. It’s not like there’s a website you can go to that tells you these things. Plus they seem to change at a moment’s notice though again, how anybody gets to know about this is a mystery.

By far my favourite part of the journey was watching the immigration guy struggle with all our passports and forms. He didn’t have a clue bless him. It doesn’t look terribly authoritarian when a middle aged bloke in crisp white and gold uniform dithers over forms. Eventually, his pen having hovered over it all for a good 3 minutes, he started simply writing down all the numbers he could find. Brilliant, great. I’m sure it must be somebody’s job to make sense of that but I can’t believe the bit of paper with all the numbers on gets any further than the bin.

So, off we went and had a lovely time despite rain and floods (see separate post). On the way back Air Asia got a bit antsy in Bangkok airport and for a full hour told us that Pete would not be allowed to travel as his visa had expired (his stamp looked different to mine and Alfie’s). The officious lady told us that she had telephoned Myanmar Immigration and they had informed her that indeed Peter Wilson’s visa had already expired. What?? Are you crazy? Why did you call them and more to the point why did you believe them? They DON’T KNOW ANYTHING you stupid woman. And you were ALL WRONG as we were finally able to establish (we did, handily, among the mountains of paperwork, have a letter to confirm that our visa extensions had been approved and was wending its way along the system. Just not in time to do anything useful).
And finally, in an ironic twist worthy of some ironic twisty person, when our passports were finally stamped again on the way back into Myanmar, Alfie and I got an expiry date of the same day, i.e. 31st March (so that immigration office does a good job eh?) and Pete got a stamp taking him up to 9th June 2011. RANDOM ain’t the word!

The lovely upshot of all this is that we are now without passports on the eve of the country’s annual holidays and can’t even travel within the country if we wanted to. We are not the only ones, our neighbours are similarly affected and also have a long established holiday to take. Not to mention our other neighbour who has waited 5 months to see her husband and father of her little girl (he is now here on a tourist visa and is STILL awaiting his business visa which he is perfectly entitled to as her spouse). In fact visa hassles, though a way of life here, have increased to such an extent recently that even the NGO’s are struggling to get people in. Some key staff in a World Health type organisation are on first name terms with the tourist visa issuing office in Bangkok, they use it so much. And practically everyone you meet has a visa nightmare story to tell.

Myanmar Immigration Office, I salute you.

Thingyan Expectations

07.04.2011 Thingyan – Expectations

So Thingyan (pron. tin-jan) is almost upon us. It is the annual Water Festival and VERY important in the Myanmar calendar, closely followed by the New Year which is, rather handily, the week after. It’s all to do with moons and Buddhism.

This year it all kicks off on 12th April when everything closes for 4 days of public holidays. The following week has another 4 days for New Year so, in effect, everyone has two and a half weeks off, result! But when I say everything closes I mean EVERYTHING. A kind of siege mentality has set in, as evidenced by day-long ‘rush hours’ all week, when everyone is stocking up and shopping madly, much as we do for Christmas I suppose. In fact Amber told me today that the nearer to the start of Thingyan you leave your shopping the more expensive it becomes, as the markets hike their prices by 50 or even 100%.

Most expats are leaving the country and we were advised of this some time ago. Hotels and flights particularly get booked up months in advance. However, due to our visa hassles (see separate post) we are stranded. Even flying up to Ngapali Beach is out for us as you have to have a passport to travel. Technically, even driving up to the nearest beach resort, about 5 hours away, is also a problem as they could stop us and check our ID – Alfie and I are currently overstaying our visas, even though the extension has been confirmed and is in the endless paperwork pipeline. We have heard of people being kicked out for just this reason.

So, here we are, stuck in Yangon for the Water Festival. All sorts of dire warnings have come our way, apparently it is chaos and bedlam for days on end. The only time the Burmese are allowed to gather publicly, they make the most of it by staying permanently drunk for days on end (I find this so hard to imagine as they are generally such a sedate and dignified lot). And then there are the soakings. Traditionally pouring water on each other is a good omen but it has of course got out of hand in recent times, so that now the shops are full of not just water pistols but water bazookas and rocket launchers and apparently the festivities centre around the lake so that they can literally drain the lake water for canons and all round drenchings. Incidences of eye, ear and stomach infections rise exponentially at this time, not to mention all the RTA’s as a result of drunk driving (and bless them, most Burmese males can’t drive at the best of times). Foreigners, children, old folk, even babies – no-one is exempt from the water blasts and I for one have decided to wear a bikini if I venture out. With a matching bazooka of course!

Of course we will have to venture out, just to see what the fuss is about. We’re not far from Kandawdgyi (pron. kan-dodgy) Lake and it’s quite a sight we’re told. However, one or even two days is probably enough, four days and even a week seems like overkill. Stock up on chocolate and DVD’s one lady told me.

So, watch this space to see if our expectations were met and if we survived the dreaded Water Festival!

Secretary of the Women's Blingstitute

18.03.2011 Secretary of the Women’s Blingstitute

Yep, I have been elected Secretary of the International Friends Group, mentioned in an earlier blogpost. Not sure how that happened, except it was on their River Cruise event and I’d had a few warm white wines whilst gazing at a gorgeous sunset…

Still, it’s been a while since I sat on a committee and all bad memories have all but disappeared, so perhaps it’s time to give it a go again. The ladies are super friendly and do such fun things; Alfie and I attended a Myanmar rice-stirring ceremony for example, and yesterday I went to visit the Home for the Aged Poor which I really enjoyed. I shall be dragging Alfie to that too!

When Alfie Was Sick

16.03.2011 When Alfie Was Sick

On Monday 7th March Pete set gaily off for the far off region of Chin state, in the north of Myanmar, to visit some of his clinics for the first time. A three day journey there and three days back plus plenty of time allowed for reaching the villages meant he would be away for two weeks. Which is OK, we’ve done that before. For the first few days it’s nice to have the TV remote to myself and eat cereal for dinner.

That night Alfie didn’t sleep well which is unusual these days. Perhaps he was fretting about Daddy though he doesn’t usually notice he’s gone gone (as opposed to gone and coming back) until about Day 3 or 4. Tuesday night was the same and Wednesday and he’d also started clawing at his mouth though I couldn’t see anything wrong.

Thursday and Friday was hot, hot, hot and he sweated a lot my boy. Amber came back from a neighbour’s house saying it was too hot for Alfie as they didn’t have the AC on, so they came home to cool down. A few sporadic syringes of Calpol and he seemed to rally. Friday afternoon however, Amber told me that my pasta sauce was too spicy because Alfie had taken a spoonful and cried. Hmm, curiouser and curiouser.

Now, I should at this point say that there are far lovelier people than us who have far worse problems than a poorly toddler and don’t feel the need to whinge, I mean blog, about it. But you’re stuck with me, so here goes.

Friday night was another nightmare of waking and cuddling and settling and waking again, sometimes drenched in sweat poor love. We were now on 5 nights of barely any sleep and his daytime naps had gone the same way. Not only but also the poor love had developed a huge spot on his chin and I joked to our Friday morning playgroup that he was heading for teenagedom already. Saturday, after more Calpol, he seemed to rally and we went to our playdate that afternoon as planned. I knew something was wrong when he was unusually antisocial, preferring to play by himself in another room and, well, whining a LOT. Even when pasta and cheese, plus strawberries and cake were served, he had zero interest. (By the way, the German Ambassador makes a great babysitter! He whisked Alfie off to see the koi carp in his ponds which was a welcome relief for all). We then made our early and hasty exit and when we got home I noticed, for the first time, ulcers in his mouth. Ulcers?? Isn’t that an adult affliction? Two tiny white spots on the end of his tongue and then two craters on the side. I don’t know how I could have missed them as I was inspecting his mouth regularly - he has some incisors coming through as well which I thought was the problem for long enough.

Time to phone Daddy in the back of beyond, who luckily was not only in an office full of doctors but was also Skype-ing his sister in Australia, also a doctor. Lots of very kind and helpful advice came my way but I also phoned Pete’s boss, a paediatrician, to double my defences so to speak. And in a final attempt to help my boy (and my sanity) in any way I could, I telephoned Dr Helen. She practices in the Australian Embassy Clinic and was not at all perturbed by being contacted at 7pm on a Saturday night, God bless her (ALL the expat mums go to her so she’s used to it). Remarkably, she asked about spots around his mouth and told me she was thinking either Hand, Foot and Mouth Disease or Herpes. Herpes? Common coldsores? I’ve had these all my life and never suffered ulcers and fever so it seemed a stretch. Keep up the Calpol and the fluids and call her again if anything changes.

But lo and behold, on Sunday morning there it was, the dreaded coldsore on his lip. His mouth was in shreds poor love, not only ulcers and coldsores but bleeding gums too. No wonder he’d not eaten for two days! Cue a frantic mummy badgering the neighbours for a lift to the ice cream shop which seemed the only thing he even considered eating, that day at least. But it still hadn’t hit me how ill he was. I remember I Skyped Pete that I’d brushed his teeth and not realised the toothbrush was full of blood until later. Bad mummy!

Monday afternoon we went to Dr Helen’s practice to have the diagnosis confirmed. It’s the initial onset of the virus which is so er, virulent. About 90% of us carry the Herpes Simplex virus, it just depends on our antibodies how we deal with it, which is why some people never experience the coldsores for example. Alfie had now been hit with the first onslaught and was busy making those vital antibodies, hence the fever and lethargy. He was so miserable she gave him a chocolate frog, reserved for vaccination cases. He ate half of it before it hit the ulcers, ouch. By now we were into Day 2 of the siege; the two of us laying on the sofa watching endless CBeebies DVD’s and mummy fruitlessly plying him with an endless parade of cool, smooth ‘food’ such as jelly, yoghurt, ice lollies, ice cubes, cold pasta and of course ice cream and lots of bottles of milk. Even water made him wince and anything vaguely related to fruit was agony. Calpol every 6 hours including at night and Nurofen 3 times a day. He was listless and glassy eyed and wanted nothing but CBeebies and Mummy, in that order I think.

Of course he’s not been ill at this age before and previously has managed to remain quite cheerful in between bouts of fever or diarrhoea or whatever. But he could barely manage a smile for 4 days. Amber still took him for his daily walk down the lane in the buggy and reported that all the compound staff and his friends along the lane were very sad that he was so ill, being used to him smiling and chatting when they met him. Day after day they asked her “is he better yet?” Sweet.

One night around 3.30am, with Alfie in my bed once again and neither of us sleeping once again, I lamented to him “all I’ve heard for the last 4 days is crying, crying, crying” at which point he repeated it back to me as ‘kine, kine, kine’ in exactly the same plaintive tone I had used. He carried on all the next day too and I felt thoroughly ashamed. Still, good to know I was adding to his vocabulary!

OK, I am making a meal out of this. Of course he recovered. He never got dehydrated enough to need hospitalisation, the fever went on the Thursday and Daddy came back on the Saturday when of course normal service resumed vis-à-vis the sleeping at least. His appetite has been slower returning but his gums are still sore and in fact he still has the remains of the coldsore on his lip. Thankfully he is back to his yummy self and his friends and neighbours are very happy at the news, Amber tells me. In fact this morning, the pool guy, on Amber’s instructions, brought him a papier mache cow from the Pagoda and he was absolutely thrilled with it. Alfie, that is, not the pool guy. Although actually he was too. Double sweet!